Trinity Restaurant: Your Next Dining Pilgrimage

I don’t get to write for this site as often as I’d like, but sometimes I have an experience that’s nothing short of spectacular, and I have to fire up the keyboard to tell you all about it. So without further delays, let’s dig into one of the most memorable experiences I’ve had eating in this city.

You may remember Matthew Abercrombie from our review of the Chef's Table at The Irish House. We were so impressed with his skills and penchant for experimentation at such a young age, that we were excited when he told us, a little over a year ago, that he was transitioning to the fine dining cuisine of Trinity Restaurant, where he has since become the tournant under Chef Mike Isolani. I had a chance to visit Trinity last week, and whatever expectations I may have had were surpassed on all fronts.

Trinity Restaurant is where Maximo’s used to be at 1117 Decatur St., bracketed by Coop’s and Turtle Bay. The second I walked in, I knew I was in for a one-of-a-kind experience. The makeover of the interior is roomy, intimately-lit, and the marble covering both the main dining area and the bar offers a great aesthetic appeal.

The hostess knew we had reservations for 6pm, and since we arrived early, we sat at the bar until they were ready for us. The bartender, Chris, was friendly, engaging, knowledgeable, and open to ideas. It’s summertime in New Orleans, so I had a watermelon cocktail with muddled cucumber and St. Germain, which was cooling and refreshing after a long, hot day.
 

After a drink and some good conversation, we were greeted by Joanie, who seated us toward the back, facing the open kitchen, where guests can watch the magic happen. I can tell you that even if I followed every step the kitchen staff did to the letter, there is a depth of knowledge of flavors and technique I will never be able to reproduce in my lifetime.

The Food

This is why you’re all reading the review, after all. I had a number of their small plates, and each one left me feeling conflicted, because each was feast for the senses, and no matter how full I was to get by the end of the night, my taste buds became greedy and wanted more.

Broiled Oysters

With cayenne aioli, panko breadcrumbs, and topped with flying fish roe

In a city where oysters are prepared dozens of ways, these stood out from the rest. Large and flavorful, the broiled oysters at Trinity are superb. The light crunch of the panko, the subtle kick of the cayenne aioli, and the roe combined nicely without losing the flavor of the oysters themselves, while each ingredient kept its identity. In short, these are a must for a starter dish.

Crispy Pork Belly

With cilantro, pickled pearl onion, and creole caramel

I love a well-prepared pork belly. This was nothing short of amazing. Crispy, without being burnt. Tender, without the gluey texture other places have. So rich and full of flavor. This was one dish I want to make a standard when introducing people to Trinity.

Gulf Shrimp Curry

With watermelon, coconut, and grilled flatbread

I’m usually wary of curry. Most places I’ve been to use curry to cover other flavors, or drown the dish in coconut cream to take all of the edge off the dish. This was perfect. The shrimp were huge, and the curry sauce accentuated their flavor, instead of overpowering it. The shaved coconut and baked watermelon served as a counterpoint to the curried shrimp. The whole dish offered a careful balance without negating the flavor of any ingredient. If you are going to Trinity for the first time, you should definitely order this dish.

Wagyu Beef Meatballs & Marrow

 

With a red pepper coulis, ciabatta, and parmigiano

I have never had meatballs that melted in my mouth until this night at Trinity. They were moist, flavorful, and when combined with the marrow and red pepper coulis, the entire dish came off as simple, yet absolutely decadent. They coulis and the marrow did not overshadow the flavor of the meat, and I could easily see a day when I come into Trinity and order this three times in one sitting.

Dessert

I was not going to leave Trinity without having dessert. What I was given was probably the best dessert I’d had in over a year, and I’m not one to shy away from sweets.

Poached Lady Apple & Goat Cheese Ice Cream

With oatmeal, caramel, and cinnamon

The presentation was elegant and enticing. On one half of the plate, there was goat cheese ice cream on a bed of sweetened oatmeal, which could have been a dessert in its own right. On the left side was the poached lady apple, suspended in a cinnamon gelée. Together, everything worked perfectly to create an elevated take on rustic flavors. The attention to detail was amazing, right down to replacing the apple’s stem with one made of chocolate. This dessert was a perfect way to conclude one of the best meals, as it left me with a sensation of comfort, wrapped in a very artistic and fun presentation.

After the meal, I had a chance to talk with Matt Abercrombie for a bit, to thank him for everything. It’s obvious that what he is doing now is lightyears beyond the amazing things he was already experimenting with two years ago.

I want to thank everyone at Trinity for such an amazing experience: Chef Mike Isolani for his vision and the amazing dishes; Matt Abercrombie for executing said dishes perfectly, and continuing to test his limits; Chris, for making sure we never got thirsty, and for making such great summer cocktails; both Joannie and Tristan for bringing a seemingly endless parade of exquisite dishes and describing them perfectly (Joannie also gave us a tour of the upstairs dining area and balcony, in between dinner and dessert); and the rest of the staff for providing one of the friendliest and superb evenings I've had dining in New Orleans. Because of this experience, I am now determined to make my way through the entire menu, dish by dish, with each successive visit, because I’m a total convert.

Whether you are visiting this great city and want to experience a restaurant that stands on its own, or if you are a native looking for new dishes with deep roots in local cooking combined with innovation and imagination that will engage all of your senses, then you need to stop by Trinity.

A Bit About Trinity Restaurant

The holy trinity of great dining is great food, wine and conversation. Trinity Restaurant and its staff strive to provide a modern and authentic New Orleans dining experience. Hugh Uhalt, the New Orleans real estate developer behind Trinity, opened the doors to Trinity over a year ago. Maximos Restaurant, the prior establishment, was one of his favorite restaurants back in its heyday through the 1980s and 1990s. As Executive Chef of Trinity, Michael Isolani leads our culinary professionals while incorporating his management expertise and background in menu development to achieve the highest standards in the kitchen. A native of Louisiana, Isolani has been involved in the restaurant industry since he was 16 and is passionate about the trade. Isolani has worked at Norman’s in the Ritz-Carlton Orlando, Chef de Partie, Stella! (Sous Chef), Lilette (Chef de Garde Manager) and Bouligny Tavern (Chef de Cuisine). At Trinity, Isolani focuses on locally sourced and familiar ingredients to create unfamiliar, imaginative dishes. His menu showcases the flavors, elements, and techniques that make up modern New Orleans cuisine. We want our food and space to be a catalyst for beautiful dining experiences and the nurturing of special relationships.

Trinity Restaurant's Website
Trinity Restaurant's Menus
Reservations
Phone: 504-325-5789