On May 31, 2017, The Irish House closed its doors for good. You can read more about the circumstances under which is shut its doors here.
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In case you haven't heard yet, New Orleans is full of great places to eat. But it's not just gumbo and crawfish (though honestly, one could be very happy just eating those). New Orleans is full of great Vietnamese, Lebanese, Mexican, Caribbean, French Classical, and every other cuisine under the sun.
Along St. Charles, in the area of my neighborhood that I like to call "Restaurant Row," sits Matt Murphy's Irish House - a gastro pub that takes classic Irish cuisine and elevates the dishes with flavors and preparation methods, while still keeping the charm and essence of their roots.
Back in June, my wife and I went to The Irish House for a little celebration (we'd just moved back to New Orleans after being stuck in Texas since 2005). Summer is a slow month for the service industry, because it's too hot and humid to draw many tourists, so you'll mostly find locals hanging out at the bars and restaurants. There was a bit of a gap in service and communication between the customers, front of house, and the kitchen, which resulted in a few mistakes. (In all fairness, the owner was away, it was the slow season, and every once in a while there are inconsistencies at the front of the house in ALL establishments.)
Without going into details, Chef Matt Murphy got in front of everything to turn the experience around, and invited us to come back for a special meal at the Kitchen Table, to show us what The Irish House was all about. And the Kitchen Table Experience was aces, and completely changed my initial impression of The Irish House.
We picked the date of my wife's birthday, and when we walked in that day, everyone seemed to know who we were on site - even those we'd never met, which was pretty damned impressive in itself!
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| The view from my seat. |
The next thing Chef Matt did was to introduce us to five delightful guests who would be staying with us throughout our meal:
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| This is a "Before" picture. The levels in those bottle dropped significantly throughout the night. |
- Honey & Fig
- Cantaloupe & Maple Syrup
- Vanilla & Brown Sugar
- Orange & Clove
- Mint & Meyer Lemon
Chef Matt then presented us with a menu he designed especially for us, and put us in the hands of his chef, Matt Abercrombie.
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| A magical adventure awaits! |
Note: The next portion of this is simply food pornography. If you continue reading this, keep a napkin handy, because you will find yourself salivating and getting very hungry.
First Course:
Potato & Leek Soup with a Truffle Poached Egg
This soup had a velvety texture, and the addition of the egg and truffle oil gave the dish a dimension that I'd never experienced. It was awesome!
Second Course:
Classic Streak Frites with a Pork Glaze and String Fries
This plate opened up my mind to a new way of thinking about sauces. First off, the meat itself was so tender, it melted in my mouth. Secondly, using a pork reduction as a sauce for beef was an absolutely brilliant move! Rather than two very distinct flavors competing on my taste buds, the pork sauce actually showcased the steak. I fell in love with this one.
Third Course:
Slow Roasted Beef with Parsnip Puree, Roasted Brussel Sprouts and Beef Marchand de Vin
I love roasted Brussel sprouts, and the beef was cooked to perfection. The parsnips were out of this world, and didn't have that sharp taste that they sometimes get - very mellow and delicious. The sauce, was so incredibly full of flavor. ("Umami" was the word used before I even took my first bite, and yes, it captured that fifth taste perfectly.) I should have been full at this point, but my senses couldn't stop.
Fourth Course:
Braised Lamb with Potato & Onion Hash, Scottish Gruel, and a Horseradish Cream Sauce
This lamb shank was keeping its shape by sheer force of will. I barely touched it with my fork, and it started to come apart - revealing tender, juicy, perfectly cooked muscle. The horseradish cream sauce was the best I'd ever had - not sharp and overpowering, but an accessory that really pushed the lamb to the center of the stage in a great way. The potatoes were tender and deliciously roasted with caramelized onions.
I know a few readers are looking at this and are saying, "Gruel? That's what they serve English orphans in Dickens' novels before they're thrown into the toil pits." HOW WRONG YOU ARE! This gruel is oats, white raisins, pecans, carrots, and a few other things I know I'm forgetting (remember the whiskey?) that come together to make a savory side, that I would love to eat as a main dish on a chilly day.
To give you an idea of just how good this lamb was, when I'd picked the bone clean, I went a step further and did something I've never done - I cracked the bone and started eating the marrow. I have never liked marrow in my life, but this made me a total convert (if I had to make a recommendation to the menu it's roasted lamb marrow and toasted bread - I'd be in every day for that, alone).
After this, the staff brought in the musician who was playing at the front of the restaurant to serenade us with "Happy Birthday!"
Fifth Course:
Trio of Guinness Chocolate Cake with Bailey's Icing
Classic Sticky Toffee
Sweet Bread Pudding
I apologize for this picture. I was so full (and maybe a bit tipsy), so I brought dessert home, and didn't take a photo of it until I was heating it up, later on. The dessert was magnificent. The Guinness chocolate cake had such a distinct flavor without being too sweet - it was an adult dessert, and I loved every bite. The sticky toffee was equally amazing, and the sweet bread pudding was rich and moist and I actually was a little sad when there was only one mouthful left.
We stuck around to talk with Matt Abercrombie and the kitchen staff (the whole experience was roughly three hours in total, and it truly was magical), and it hit me - To call Matt Murphy's Irish house a "pub" or an "Irish Restaurant" is actually a disservice. After eating at the Kitchen Table, and talking with Chef Matt Murphy, Chef Matt Abercrombie, and the rest of the staff - The Irish house creates an intimate experience that is more like spending time with family and friends over elegant Irish cuisine.
They are humble and very friendly, but after talking with everyone and experiencing the food (and drink - have I mentioned the whiskey?) I can say that Chef Matt Murphy's Irish House has a group of rock stars working in the back, to bring people some of the best Irish cuisine I've ever had, and the care they have shows through in the food they serve.
After our experience with the Irish House, it is very clear why Chef Matt Murphy holds the title of Chopped Champion. His ability to run a restaurant, serve great food, and personally ensure that guests are happy - and the joy he shows at letting people experience his world puts him a cut above the others.
Afterward: it should be noted that The Irish House is extremely mindful of dietary requirements and allergies. My wife was recently put on medication that hampered certain taste buds and enhanced certain allergies, so she ordered a cheeseburger for one of her dishes. The staff cooked an amazing cheeseburger (I snuck a bite when she wasn't looking) without losing a beat in the meal they had planned. The Irish House offers gluten-free options, and Chef Matt Murphy has a specialty store on Magazine Street, catering to people with Paleo dietary needs, called FARE.
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| One last picture: An amazing burger with Irish cheddar |
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