I don’t get to write for this site as often as I’d like, but
sometimes I have an experience that’s nothing short of spectacular, and
I have to fire up the keyboard to tell you all about it. So without
further delays, let’s dig into one of the most memorable
experiences I’ve had eating in this city.
You may remember Matthew Abercrombie from our review of the Chef's Table at The Irish House. We were so impressed with his skills and penchant for experimentation at such a young age, that we were excited when he told us, a little over a year ago, that he was transitioning to the fine dining cuisine of Trinity Restaurant, where he has since become
the tournant under Chef Mike Isolani. I had a chance to visit Trinity
last week, and whatever expectations I may have had were surpassed
on all fronts.
Trinity Restaurant is where Maximo’s used to be at 1117 Decatur St., bracketed by Coop’s and Turtle Bay. The second I walked in, I knew I was in for a one-of-a-kind experience. The makeover of the interior is roomy, intimately-lit, and the marble covering both the main dining area and the bar offers a great aesthetic appeal.
The hostess knew we had reservations for 6pm, and since we arrived
early, we sat at the bar until they were ready for us. The bartender,
Chris, was friendly, engaging, knowledgeable, and open to ideas. It’s
summertime in New Orleans, so I had a watermelon cocktail with
muddled cucumber and St. Germain, which was cooling and refreshing
after a long, hot day.
After a drink and some good conversation, we were greeted by Joanie,
who seated us toward the back, facing the open kitchen, where guests
can watch the magic happen. I can tell you that even if I followed
every step the kitchen staff did to the letter, there is a depth of
knowledge of flavors and technique I will never be able to reproduce
in my lifetime.
The Food
This is why you’re all reading the review, after all. I had a
number of their small plates, and each one left me feeling
conflicted, because each was feast for the senses, and no matter how
full I was to get by the end of the night, my taste buds became
greedy and wanted more.
Broiled Oysters
With cayenne aioli, panko breadcrumbs, and topped with flying fish
roe
In a city where oysters are prepared dozens of ways, these stood out
from the rest. Large and flavorful, the broiled oysters at Trinity are
superb. The light crunch of the panko, the subtle kick of the cayenne
aioli, and the roe combined nicely without losing the flavor of the
oysters themselves, while each ingredient kept its identity. In
short, these are a must for a starter dish.
Crispy Pork Belly
With cilantro, pickled pearl onion, and creole caramel
I love a well-prepared pork belly. This was nothing short of amazing.
Crispy, without being burnt. Tender, without the gluey texture other
places have. So rich and full of flavor. This was one dish I want to
make a standard when introducing people to Trinity.
Gulf Shrimp Curry
With watermelon, coconut, and grilled flatbread
I’m usually wary of curry. Most places I’ve been to use curry to
cover other flavors, or drown the dish in coconut cream to take all
of the edge off the dish. This was perfect. The shrimp were huge, and
the curry sauce accentuated their flavor, instead of overpowering it.
The shaved coconut and baked watermelon served as a counterpoint to
the curried shrimp. The whole dish offered a careful balance without
negating the flavor of any ingredient. If you are going to Trinity
for the first time, you should definitely order this dish.
Wagyu Beef
Meatballs & Marrow
With a red pepper coulis, ciabatta, and parmigiano
I have never had meatballs that melted in my mouth until this night
at Trinity. They were moist, flavorful, and when combined with the
marrow and red pepper coulis, the entire dish came off as simple, yet
absolutely decadent. They coulis and the marrow did not overshadow
the flavor of the meat, and I could easily see a day when I come into
Trinity and order this three times in one sitting.
Dessert
I was not going to leave Trinity without having dessert. What I was
given was probably the best dessert I’d had in over a year, and I’m
not one to shy away from sweets.
Poached Lady
Apple & Goat Cheese Ice Cream
With oatmeal, caramel, and cinnamon
The
presentation was elegant and enticing. On one half of the plate,
there was goat cheese ice cream on a bed of sweetened oatmeal, which
could have been a dessert in its own right. On the left side was the
poached lady apple, suspended in a cinnamon gelée.
Together, everything worked perfectly to create an elevated take on
rustic flavors. The
attention to detail was amazing, right down to replacing the apple’s
stem with one made of chocolate. This dessert was a perfect way to
conclude one of the best meals, as it left me with a sensation of
comfort, wrapped in a very artistic and fun presentation.
After the meal, I had a chance to talk with Matt Abercrombie for a
bit, to thank him for everything. It’s obvious that what he is
doing now is lightyears beyond the amazing things he was already
experimenting with two years ago.
I want to thank everyone at Trinity for such an amazing experience:
Chef Mike Isolani for his vision and the amazing dishes; Matt
Abercrombie for executing said dishes perfectly, and continuing to
test his limits; Chris, for making sure we never got thirsty, and for
making such great summer cocktails; both Joannie and Tristan for
bringing a seemingly endless parade of exquisite dishes and
describing them perfectly (Joannie also gave us a tour of the
upstairs dining area and balcony, in between dinner and dessert); and the rest of the staff for providing one of the friendliest and superb evenings I've had dining in New Orleans.
Because of this experience, I am now determined to make my way
through the entire menu, dish by dish, with each successive visit,
because I’m a total convert.
Whether you are visiting this great city and want to experience a
restaurant that stands on its own, or if you are a native looking for
new dishes with deep roots in local cooking combined with innovation
and imagination that will engage all of your senses, then you need to
stop by Trinity.
A Bit About Trinity Restaurant
The
holy trinity of great dining is great food, wine and
conversation. Trinity Restaurant and its staff strive to provide
a modern and authentic New Orleans dining experience. Hugh
Uhalt, the New Orleans real estate developer behind Trinity, opened
the doors to Trinity over a year ago. Maximos Restaurant, the prior
establishment, was one of his favorite restaurants back in its heyday
through the 1980s and 1990s. As Executive Chef of Trinity,
Michael Isolani leads our culinary professionals while incorporating
his management expertise and background in menu development to
achieve the highest standards in the kitchen. A native of
Louisiana, Isolani has been involved in the restaurant industry since
he was 16 and is passionate about the trade. Isolani has worked at
Norman’s in the Ritz-Carlton Orlando, Chef de Partie, Stella! (Sous
Chef), Lilette (Chef de Garde Manager) and Bouligny Tavern (Chef de
Cuisine). At Trinity, Isolani focuses on locally sourced and
familiar ingredients to create unfamiliar, imaginative dishes. His
menu showcases the flavors, elements, and techniques that make up
modern New Orleans cuisine. We want our food and space to be a
catalyst for beautiful dining experiences and the nurturing of
special relationships.
Trinity Restaurant's Website
Trinity Restaurant's Menus
Reservations
Phone: 504-325-5789
Trinity Restaurant's Website
Trinity Restaurant's Menus
Reservations
Phone: 504-325-5789
